This valley of Haute Bléone has character, surrounded by its mountains. As if painters had discreetly come to embellish it with their multicolored brushes. Its presence magnifies the other peaks. Imposing even from a distance, the Estrop dominates the Dignois region. His head culminates at 2961 meters and deserves. Over the seasons, on foot, on snowshoes or cross-country skiing, sustained effort is essential. The panorama as far as the eye can see on the surrounding massifs is quite a reward. On the way for a breathtaking 360!
Departure “base camp”
Les Eaux Chaudes, the name of the lake, contrasts with the morning freshness. This is the beginning of my Estrop Odyssey. Backpack unloaded as much as possible to preserve yourself, the beam of the headlamp opens the way. At the start of the forest track, the stones crunch underfoot. The night amplifies the sensations. The fervor is there. A mixture of excitement and apprehension at the mention of the intense effort to be made. Reaching the highest point of the Dignois country is not an adventure to be taken lightly.
The dawn reveals the surrounding peaks. The Estrop is for the moment hidden by its congeners. Larches adorn the slopes along the route. Their autumnal flamboyance will put an end to this geological harmony that parades before our eyes. The fiery palette of their needles will soon sublimate this natural painting.
The sound of water remains discreet but the Bléone rushes down in the distance. Stride after stride, its source draws closer. You will have to wait a bit and climb more to reach it.
Altitude flavors and scents
The relatively flat warm-up of the first kilometers gives way to a narrow and more difficult path. The Nepalese bridge is crossed, the river bed and its rocky chaos recede and the ascent begins. The forest delivers its typical scents. Accentuated by the morning dew, the smells of moss and carpets of needles assault the nostrils. Mountain lavender and its much sought-after fragrance dot the edges of the path.
Strawberries and wild raspberries slow down the progression with relish. Hmmmm… the fruit juice bursts in the mouth. Their flavor is enhanced by the altitude. An unexpected, gourmet and tasty stopover!
Waterfall of the Piche
The subtle aroma of raspberries still perfumes the palate and galvanizes the body. After this delicious crossing through the undergrowth, the path rises more seriously, sometimes on the side, sometimes in short bends to arrive at Pas de la Piche, which you cross via a ledge. Quickly in sight, the Piche waterfall projects the water of the Bléone with force and flow below. The turquoise basin would make you want to immerse yourself in an invigorating bath of freshness. The climb warms up the muscles and the frame. The sun has generously faded the night and the skin is gently inflamed with this natural heat.
Upstream of the waterfall, the landscape opens onto pastures. This valley does not lack pace. Favorite place for summer pastures, herds graze here and there, shepherds' huts dot the pasture. At the far end, you can make out the protective silhouette of the Estrop refuge, judiciously installed in the hollow of the massif.
Mountain pastures and “advanced camp” of the Estrop refuge
Under the heat of the summer sun, the green of the thick spring grass has disappeared, replaced by the gold of late summer. An anthology of colors! The deep blue of the sky contrasts with the yellow of the tall grass. The Bléone, crystalline, has lost its thickness, it is a mountain torrent. Its source is now nearby. The terrain becomes softer again and the prospect of soon reaching the refuge gives a boost of energy. The steps lengthen and accelerate. Marmots, accustomed to the parade of hikers, still alert their offspring of imminent danger. A shrill whistle sounds, a local sign of a first step taken: the Estrop refuge has been reached.
On the terrace, the break is frugal but delicious. The bachal makes it possible to replenish the gourds. Do not linger, keep the pace and set off again to attack the colossus!
Attacking the head of Estrop
The grassy slope overlooking the refuge sets the scene: the ascent to the summit will not be easy. The first switchbacks are steep, the breath becomes short. Legs wobble and feel the elevation already swallowed. Proceed slowly, breathe deeply and resume a rhythm. The splendor of the landscape mitigates the difficulty of this steep area. After the last mountain pastures, a sumptuous rocky chaos ensues. The cairns will be sentries to the summit. The silence adds to the serious atmosphere of the high mountains. To remain vigilant. Between each stone, the steps are precise. The ascent is sporty, in the middle of impressive blocks. The difference in height scrolls, the summit slope is in sight.
The Estrop dome sits enthroned in a unique atmosphere of intertwined rock slabs. The hand of man has positioned some of them vertically: a work of art! The more trying passages are quickly forgotten and rewarded by a breathtaking 360. The gaze, insatiable, twirls in all directions. The show is stunning!
And if I noted the Estrop in my favorite “hiking” recipes… sweet and savory sporting adventure, sparkling encounters and spicy landscapes: all the ingredients for an original getaway. I want more !
An evening suspended… at an altitude of more than 2000 meters
The eyes never tire of these endless landscapes, but it's time to come back down. At the idea of finding the refuge for the night, the legs, exhausted by this sporting epic, regain strength. The mind wanders and remembers all these privileged moments, in the heart of a dazzling nature. Startle… the heart throbs suddenly. The silence is disturbed by the whistle of a chamois, a mother protects her baby and warns of the human presence. They are beautiful and free on their rock. They almost fly, their agility is disconcerting.
The arrival at the refuge is greeted by the warm welcome of the guards. The open-air shower invigorates sore muscles. The ladleful of nettle soup is a delight, its reputation preceded it. This high-altitude feast has a special flavor. Hitherto unknown hikers share their adventures. Tongues are loosened and stories are going well. We are still resisting a little fatigue. Sleep will be deep no doubt.
Homemade breakfast engulfed, it's time to get going. The descent is substantial. The numb legs of the day before wake up quietly. Fortunately, the translucent basins of the Bléone will be the icing on this unforgettable hike upon arrival.
Good to know
- Shelter open from May to October
- Good physical condition
- Day 1: good walkers
- Day 2: experienced walkers
Sports hike recommended in two days. Ascent to the refuge on the 1st day (approximately 850 meters of elevation gain). Night at the shelter. Head of Estrop on the 2nd day (approximately 920 meters of elevation gain) and return to the starting point.
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